Head Route Setter & Coach

He/Him

MATT LUCAS

Matty has been climbing for over 16 years, with 14 of those spent routesetting. Originally from Calgary, he’s found his rhythm on steep terrain, anything 40° or over is where he feels most at home.

Outside, you’ll often find him at The Gateway, chasing movement on rock that mirrors the style he loves to bring indoors.

When it comes to setting, Matty leans into power and momentum, big moves, dynamic sequences, and the kind of problems that keep you coming back for “just one more try.”

Whether he’s setting, tweaking a sequence, or watching someone stick a move for the first time, Matty’s work is all about keeping things fun, challenging, and just a little bit out of reach.

Black and white photo of a man wearing a cap and Gloves holding a power drill.